Sunday, July 20, 2014
Today we awoke to thunderstorms and torrential
rain. No showers as there was no water left in the tank but hopefully once we
get back it will have been filled. We met our guide at 4:30 this morning and
started up the Saratoka mountain top to see if we could see the sunrise. We were presented with white scarves called
kaftans which are given with a blessing.
The rain stopped but it was too cloudy. We did see some beautiful sites and cloud formations overlooking the town of Pokhara so we were very pleased.
We will give a bit of history on Tibet. Tibet has had many battles with other countries over invasions and borders. The last one was in 1950 when China started to make itself better known to Tibet under the guise of helping to improve its infrastructure. China did not interfere with the politics or religions of the country. Slowly China started to try to gain more control, buying up land and taking over farms.
In 1959 there was a rumour that China wanted to kill the Dali Lama as he was the seat of religious and political power. The Chinese invited him to attend a special festival in China which he declined. The Chinese were using the roads for transporting military machinery and men into Tibet. They had secret police and renegade monks all over Tibet to keep an eye on the Dali Lama.
The Tibetan people moved as one to surround the royal palace. Under the guise of a soldier, the Dali Lama, freedom fighters and other lamas safely got the Dali Lama out of the country into India.
The Dali Lama was also accompanied by special soldiers trained by the CIA. The United States was the first country to know of the plans as well as help. Even today the CIA has money put into a special fund that is used for retired freedom fighters and their families. This fund pays the retired soldiers approximately 3,000 rupees a month and the wives 1500.00. This is approximately $50.00 US a month. The Dali Lama had to rethink if he should leave Tibet. He realized that he could help his country more from afar and is still living in Darsamala, India. The Chinese in retaliation destroyed the majority of temples, holy relics, as well as killed imprisoned monks, lay people, adults and children. Over 2.2 million Tibetans died during this time.
The Tibetans have left in droves to Nepal. They have never been given any status so really are a people without a livable country. They cannot own land here in Nepal so what some do is have a Nepalese friend purchase it for them. They are not allowed to travel as they have no documents. The government decided to give some refugee status in 1989. After that year they took it back and they can no longer get any legal document regardless if they have been born in Nepal. The ones who have a Tibetan refugee status card from 1989 can travel to India as they have a porous border with Nepal but they cannot travel after that. The Tibetans must also pay for a travel visa which is only good for one month and costs 45,000 rupees or roughly $450 for this.
We first went up the mountain to see the views of the Himalayans. We have been very fortunate as the sky turned bright blue and the clouds cleared enough to see them. They are truly majestic.
The rain stopped but it was too cloudy. We did see some beautiful sites and cloud formations overlooking the town of Pokhara so we were very pleased.
We will give a bit of history on Tibet. Tibet has had many battles with other countries over invasions and borders. The last one was in 1950 when China started to make itself better known to Tibet under the guise of helping to improve its infrastructure. China did not interfere with the politics or religions of the country. Slowly China started to try to gain more control, buying up land and taking over farms.
In 1959 there was a rumour that China wanted to kill the Dali Lama as he was the seat of religious and political power. The Chinese invited him to attend a special festival in China which he declined. The Chinese were using the roads for transporting military machinery and men into Tibet. They had secret police and renegade monks all over Tibet to keep an eye on the Dali Lama.
The Tibetan people moved as one to surround the royal palace. Under the guise of a soldier, the Dali Lama, freedom fighters and other lamas safely got the Dali Lama out of the country into India.
The Dali Lama was also accompanied by special soldiers trained by the CIA. The United States was the first country to know of the plans as well as help. Even today the CIA has money put into a special fund that is used for retired freedom fighters and their families. This fund pays the retired soldiers approximately 3,000 rupees a month and the wives 1500.00. This is approximately $50.00 US a month. The Dali Lama had to rethink if he should leave Tibet. He realized that he could help his country more from afar and is still living in Darsamala, India. The Chinese in retaliation destroyed the majority of temples, holy relics, as well as killed imprisoned monks, lay people, adults and children. Over 2.2 million Tibetans died during this time.
The Tibetans have left in droves to Nepal. They have never been given any status so really are a people without a livable country. They cannot own land here in Nepal so what some do is have a Nepalese friend purchase it for them. They are not allowed to travel as they have no documents. The government decided to give some refugee status in 1989. After that year they took it back and they can no longer get any legal document regardless if they have been born in Nepal. The ones who have a Tibetan refugee status card from 1989 can travel to India as they have a porous border with Nepal but they cannot travel after that. The Tibetans must also pay for a travel visa which is only good for one month and costs 45,000 rupees or roughly $450 for this.
We first went up the mountain to see the views of the Himalayans. We have been very fortunate as the sky turned bright blue and the clouds cleared enough to see them. They are truly majestic.
Himalayans
We had breakfast at the home of a 93 year old freedom fighter who was a guard for the Dali Lama when he fled from Tibet. His dream before he dies is to go back to Tibet. He knows if he does he will disappear. We were served butter tea which sounds horrid but for those who tried it, not bad. It is made with butter, water and salt and helps give sustenance to those living in such hardy climates. The butter is scooped from the top of the tea as it hardens and used just like Shea butter to soften and protect the skin against the harsh climate. We were also given Tampa which is ground and roasted barley flour. The tea is splashed into the flour and you mix it with your hand until a soft dough ball forms. Again this is something that is portable and can be carried easily by the nomads. It does not weigh much but gives fibre and protein.
We had breakfast at the home of a 93 year old freedom fighter who was a guard for the Dali Lama when he fled from Tibet. His dream before he dies is to go back to Tibet. He knows if he does he will disappear. We were served butter tea which sounds horrid but for those who tried it, not bad. It is made with butter, water and salt and helps give sustenance to those living in such hardy climates. The butter is scooped from the top of the tea as it hardens and used just like Shea butter to soften and protect the skin against the harsh climate. We were also given Tampa which is ground and roasted barley flour. The tea is splashed into the flour and you mix it with your hand until a soft dough ball forms. Again this is something that is portable and can be carried easily by the nomads. It does not weigh much but gives fibre and protein.
93 year old freedom fighter Tampa
From here we were taken to a local monastery, toured and then taken in to hear the monks chant. It is a special puja for the next 3 months. Tibetan Buddhists try to refrain from killing any living thing so during the monsoons, they do not venture past the walls of the monastery in case they step upon an insect.
From here we were taken to a local monastery, toured and then taken in to hear the monks chant. It is a special puja for the next 3 months. Tibetan Buddhists try to refrain from killing any living thing so during the monsoons, they do not venture past the walls of the monastery in case they step upon an insect.
Monastery
We each had a reading with a doctor who has been trained in western medicine as well as Tibetan medicine. She placed her hands on our wrists and from here could determine our state of health, and peace of mind. Amazingly she was spot-on with most of us.
We toured some schools in the camps which are all based on the Montessori style of teaching. The schools were much better then the Nepal schools; organized, clean and full of teaching materials. These schools are all supported through the political offices in Darsamala in India through the Dali Lama. There is no school fee for any of the children. We were really impressed with how well they are all doing despite the oppression of Nepal government towards them.
We visited noodle factories that employ street kids, regardless if they are Tibetan or Nepali, as well as learned about the art of carpet making.
For lunch we were invited into another family’s home in another camp and served Dahl baht and rice. In their homes, carpets are used to cover couches as well as floors and all hand made. To give an idea of how much time is involved, it may take a woman 4 days to make a carpet the size of a cushion. She will get paid about 400 rupees for 4 days week or $40.00.
Overall our tour started at 4:30 am and finished up at 2:00. It was a really wonderful day. We have learned so much about Tibetan culture and must say that we are all impressed with how they treat everyone the same regardless of sex, nationality or religion. When the Dali Lama was asked what the hardest thing was for him when he had to flee Tibet, his reply was, “to remember not to hate” and his greatest fear was that they would come to hate the Chinese for the atrocities they committed. We can learn a thing or two from his kindness, gentleness and compassion.
We each had a reading with a doctor who has been trained in western medicine as well as Tibetan medicine. She placed her hands on our wrists and from here could determine our state of health, and peace of mind. Amazingly she was spot-on with most of us.
We toured some schools in the camps which are all based on the Montessori style of teaching. The schools were much better then the Nepal schools; organized, clean and full of teaching materials. These schools are all supported through the political offices in Darsamala in India through the Dali Lama. There is no school fee for any of the children. We were really impressed with how well they are all doing despite the oppression of Nepal government towards them.
We visited noodle factories that employ street kids, regardless if they are Tibetan or Nepali, as well as learned about the art of carpet making.
For lunch we were invited into another family’s home in another camp and served Dahl baht and rice. In their homes, carpets are used to cover couches as well as floors and all hand made. To give an idea of how much time is involved, it may take a woman 4 days to make a carpet the size of a cushion. She will get paid about 400 rupees for 4 days week or $40.00.
Overall our tour started at 4:30 am and finished up at 2:00. It was a really wonderful day. We have learned so much about Tibetan culture and must say that we are all impressed with how they treat everyone the same regardless of sex, nationality or religion. When the Dali Lama was asked what the hardest thing was for him when he had to flee Tibet, his reply was, “to remember not to hate” and his greatest fear was that they would come to hate the Chinese for the atrocities they committed. We can learn a thing or two from his kindness, gentleness and compassion.